Stuart Island is really lovely. The anchorage here is very well-protected. It’s quiet and peaceful with lots of birds and only a few boats.  Probably not peaceful or quiet in summer, but perfect right now.

Yesterday (April 23) we set out for what we thought would be a couple mile walk to Turn Point Lighthouse. Let me tell you, it was uphill both ways, I kid you not. We started off on a trail through the woods (uphill) toward Reid Harbor when we spotted another trail heading North which was not on any of our charts or maps. A shortcut!  We headed up that. And up. And up. And up. Eventually, about an hour later, we came upon a quaint, one-room schoolhouse. 

We now had a dirt road to walk along. Shortly we came to a sign pointing the way to the lighthouse, another 1.5 miles. Seriously?  Well, we’ve come this far, no sense turning back now, and anyway it should be downhill from here. We walked about a quarter mile somewhat downhill, turned a corner and started uphill again. 
Eventually we came to a sign telling us we were now in the Turn Point Lighthouse preservation. We’re here, we thought. Nope. Another quarter mile uphill and suddenly the road goes straight down. Uggh. We ain’t goin down there because, well, you know. We are whupped and ravished so we stopped and ate some lunch to think about whether or not we want to walk DOWN there just to see a lighthouse.  You’ve seen one lighthouse, you’ve seen ‘em all.

Before lunch:
Me: Ya know, we’re gonna see that lighthouse from the water when we go by on our way to Sydney. 
Alan: Yup.

After lunch:

Alan: Would be a shame to come all this way and not see the lighthouse. We would regret it. 
Me: Yup. 
Down we went. Saw lighthouse. Then straight up. Finally we get to walk somewhat downhill but we don’t wanna go back the way we came. So we took another shortcut. This time we went to the bay to walk along the beach back to Calliope. We could see her (an improvement) but she was still a long way off. Over rocks, barnacles, seaweed and a tiny bit of sand. Would not have made it this way if the tide had not been out. 
Today we’re thinking about taking the South loop. It’s only about a mile. Not counting shortcuts. 

Saturday, April 20.  Last night in Legoe Bay was not fun. We anchored there because a strong NW wind was predicted and I (Nancy) thought we would be protected. Generally south winds in Legoe Bay are the nasties. I thought we would be fine, wait for the tide to turn in the morning and sail most of the way to Waldron Island with a 10kt wind. Well.  Best laid plans. 

There were gale force winds further North in the Strait of Georgia pushing a lot of water down to us. The incoming tide opposing wind was creating huge swells. Back eddy currents in Legoe Bay were pulling us around so that we were taking the swells sideways.  Woke us at 3 AM. Got up at 4 AM. Had to wait until 8 AM for tide to turn. 

We headed out into Rosario Strait knowing it would be bad but we also couldn’t stay where we were. Had we been in a protected anchorage, I would have stayed there until things calmed down. (Note to self: when sustained winds are expected across big waters, seek WELL-PROTECTED anchorage and STAY there.) It was bad. Three foot seas coming over the bow. Going against current, wind and waves I could barely make 2kt.  Some waves coming over the pilot house. Wind at 12-14kt. Took over 2 hours to round the North end of Orcas Island. When we got to President’s Channel there were whitecaps all down the channel but now the current and wind were with us. I crossed the channel into the lee of Waldron, turned and put the jib full out. We shot through President’s Channel like a f*#@in’ bullet!  I clocked us at 11.5kt and our hull speed is 7kt!

Once we got to the end of the channel there were no whitecaps and it was calm as could be. A full six hours after tide turn. Go figure. 

Here we are anchored in Cowlitz Bay, Waldron Island, looking all innocent, like a swimming pool. We broke three records today: slowest speed at max RPM (1.8 kt); fastest speed (11.5 kt); and water over the pilothouse. I’ve been worried about crossing Queen Charlotte Sound and rounding Cape Caution. If it’s worse than this, I am scared. My guess is this is the worst we’ll see the entire trip. Don’t laugh, it happened last year crossing Rosario between Lopez and Anacortes. 

Sent from my iPad